“Would you like a Picon punch?”
Even though it was 11 a.m. on a Thursday, it would have been hard to say no. You see, this staple of Basque identity does not live by the clock, and one is rarely refused, especially when it’s being offered by Marie Louise Lekumberry, co-owner of J.T. Basque Bar and Dining Room in Gardnerville. This heady mixture of Torani amer picon, brandy, soda water and grenadine is ubiquitous in Basque bars, restaurants and gathering places—and is considered by many to be the state drink of Nevada.
Since coming to Nevada in the mid-1800s from the mountainous Pyrenees region of Spain and France, the Basque have become an indelible part of the state—first as participants in the Gold Rush, and then, later, when the claims disappeared, more as shepherds and ranchers. In the winter, as these hardworking men retreated with their flocks from the mountains, local boarding houses would provide them with food, familiarity and a sense of family.
Through music, dance, language and, most of all, food, the Basque heritage is still celebrated here with passion, often at communal tables where meals are served family-style, with large dishes of sides passed around. Such traditions—along with heaping measures of nostalgia—are kept alive by historic boarding houses-turned-restaurants across Northern Nevada.
As an avid food and travel blogger, I visited three of the state’s favorites— the J.T., The Martin in Winnemucca, and The Fe, Reno’s newest Basque eatery, located in the 1949 Santa Fe Hotel building downtown.
Where time falls away
The Martin Hotel
94 West Railroad St., Winnemucca
themartinhotel.com
John Arant, owner of The Martin in Winnemucca, called Basque restaurants “a cornerstone of culture here.” Generations return to this one, built in 1898, time and again for the sense of place, for the feeling of home.
Time largely falls away here as diners bond over traditional fare and servers say, “On egin!” (“Enjoy your meal”) with sincerity. Bread baskets overflow, and wine glasses are constantly refilled. Course after course of soups, salads, beans and French fries in heaping portions are brought for the table, backed up by sizzling entrées from local ranches, featuring charcoal-grilled steaks, lamb and classic preparations of Solomo (pork lion), sweetbreads and tongue. Garlic is seemingly its own food group here.
The tables are long, and the atmosphere is warm. Singing should be expected—and no one leaves The Martin hungry.
Balancing tradition and innovation
The Fe
235 Lake St., Reno
www.thefereno.com
While Basque dining is steeped in tradition, some nods to modern dining have indeed crept into the mindset. In downtown Reno, a new iteration of the venerable Santa Fe Hotel dining room opened in October. Now called simply The Fe, this modern eatery largely dispenses with the family-style, multi-course meals in favor of a small-plate approach.
According to co-owner Gavin Sarratea, the small plates—called pintxos (pronounced “pinchos”)—are “a better fit for how people choose to eat now and allow for a more authentic Basque experience,” mirroring how meals are offered back in Spain. They’re served with the most delicious Picons in the area, free-flowing wine and lively chats.
How is the food? Amazing. One of my favorite examples is an order of two beautifully crispy croquetas placed atop a vibrant tomato sauce, topped by curls of dry Jack—a dish reminiscent of an Italian crocchette, but native to the Basque region of Navarra. Another beautifully presented plate features three different and equally delicious small, bread-based bites, including a sublime Serrano ham with cheese and pimento; and an incredible chorizo, Manchego and pickled garlic set.
Sarratea’s recipes are brilliant. He’s a first-generation Basque American, and when asked what makes his food so special, he replied that his dad taught him much of what he knows.
‘Keeping the spirit alive’
J.T. Basque Bar & Dining Room
1426 Highway 395, Gardnerville
jtbasquenv.com
The J.T. has been in the care of the Lekumberry family since 1960. Over a chorizo burger (locally sourced and thoroughly delicious), fries that seemingly fell from heaven and a “side” salad large enough to feed a family of four, I asked Marie Louise about the restaurant’s history, and what makes it such a special place to so many.
She replied simply, “The spirit—it’s in the walls,” and as you look around the bar at newspaper clippings, vintage event posters and 4-H awards, you can see and feel it, too. Then there are the hats—cowboy hats, trucker caps and military berets, all hung neatly in rows, many with names inscribed on them, like Sarman, Borda and Settelmayer. These are traces of the families and histories from the town and surrounding ranches, names that are as much a part of these places as the proprietors’ names.
Lekumberry said she’s serving several generations who came to the J.T as children. “It means we are making people happy and keeping the spirit alive,” she said.